Charred Hispi Cabbage with Anchovy Butter

Hispi, sometimes sold as sweetheart or pointed cabbage, is sweeter and more tender than a round white cabbage and takes to direct heat far better. Quarter it through the root so the wedges hold together.

Char, then steam

Cut side down in a dry, very hot pan until the surface is properly black in patches, not merely browned. Then a splash of water and a lid for eight minutes, so the inside softens while the outside keeps its bitterness.

The anchovy butter is four fillets mashed into softened butter with lemon zest. It melts into the cut faces and disappears. Nobody at the table will identify anchovy; they will say the cabbage tastes savoury.

Do not salt early

Anchovies are salt. Season at the end, after tasting, or you will overshoot.